Illustration: a row of market stalls under hanging lanterns

Market, Delhi

Chandni Chowk

The old city's main street and the lanes off it: parathas, silver, spices, wedding cards and Jama Masjid round the corner. Most shops shut on Sundays.

What it is

Chandni Chowk was laid out in the 17th century by Jahanara, Shah Jahan's daughter, and it still runs from the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid. The main road was rebuilt a few years ago with a stone-paved walkway and a central strip, and it is now closed to cars. The real shopping is in the side lanes. Dariba Kalan sells silver, Kinari Bazar sells wedding trim, and Khari Baoli at the far end is Asia's biggest spice market.

Along the way you pass Gauri Shankar Temple, Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib and the Sunehri Masjid. Paranthe Wali Gali is a short lane of paratha shops.

Getting there

Chandni Chowk station on the Yellow Line opens right onto the area. Lal Quila on the Violet Line is at the Red Fort end. The main road is a non-motorised zone from 9 am to 9 pm. Use cycle rickshaws or e-rickshaws in the lanes, and agree the fare first.

When to go

Weekday mornings, before eleven, are best. By afternoon the lanes are shoulder to shoulder. Diwali and wedding season are the busiest of all. Most of the market shuts on Sundays, though some food shops stay open.

Good to know

Wear comfortable shoes and keep your bag in front. Carry cash, since small shops prefer it. If you plan to buy in bulk, bring someone who knows the market.

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