Illustration: a chaat cart between market stalls

Food street, Delhi

Hauz Khas Village

A medieval reservoir and Firoz Shah Tughlaq's madrasa, with cafes and bars squeezed into the old village behind them. Calm by day and busy at night.

What it is

Alauddin Khilji dug the reservoir, the hauz, around 1300 to supply his fort at Siri. Firoz Shah Tughlaq later cleaned it and built a madrasa along its edge, and his own tomb stands at the corner. The view over the lake from the madrasa windows is the reason to come.

The village behind was turned over to boutiques, galleries and then restaurants and bars from the late eighties onwards. Deer Park next door has a small deer enclosure, rabbits and long walking paths.

Getting there

Hauz Khas station, on the Yellow and Magenta Lines, and Green Park on the Yellow Line are both a short auto ride away. The lane into the village is narrow, and parking is limited and full most evenings. Take a cab or an auto, and expect a short walk at the end.

When to go

Come in the late afternoon for the ruins and the lake, then stay for dinner. Families do better on weekdays. Friday and Saturday nights belong to the bar crowd and are loud.

Good to know

Restaurants open and close here often, so check before you set off for a particular one. Some staircases in the village are steep and dark. Walk through Deer Park to reach the lake side if you are coming with children.

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